What Are Rats?

Rats are large rodents that pose serious health and property damage risks. Texas is home to two primary species: Norway rats (also called sewer rats) and roof rats (also called black rats or ship rats). Both species are highly adaptable, intelligent, and reproduce rapidly - a single pair can produce 15,000 descendants in one year under ideal conditions.

Rats are neophobic (fearful of new things), making them difficult to trap. They're also much larger and more destructive than mice, capable of gnawing through wood, plastic, soft concrete, aluminum, and even lead pipes. Rats are implicated in more property fires than any other pest due to their habit of chewing electrical wiring.

⚠️ Serious Health Threat: Rats carry and transmit over 35 diseases to humans including leptospirosis, hantavirus, salmonellosis, and rat-bite fever. Their urine, droppings, saliva, and parasites (fleas, ticks, mites) all pose health risks. A rat infestation requires immediate professional treatment.

Types of Rats in Texas

Norway Rats (Rattus norvegicus)

Most Common in Texas - "Sewer Rats"

  • Large, heavy-bodied: 7-10 inches long (body), 6-8 inches tail
  • Weight: 10-17 ounces (nearly 1 pound)
  • Brown or gray fur with lighter belly
  • Small ears and eyes relative to body size
  • Blunt nose/muzzle
  • Tail shorter than body length

Behavior & Habitat:

  • Ground-dwelling, prefer basements, crawl spaces, first floors
  • Burrow along foundations, under slabs, in yards
  • Excellent swimmers (can enter through sewer lines)
  • Poor climbers compared to roof rats
  • Found near water sources
  • Active primarily at night

Also called: Brown rat, sewer rat, wharf rat, common rat

Roof Rats (Rattus rattus)

Common in Southeast Texas - "Black Rats"

  • Sleek, slender body: 6-8 inches long (body), 7-10 inches tail
  • Weight: 5-10 ounces (lighter than Norway rats)
  • Black to gray-brown fur
  • Large ears and eyes
  • Pointed nose/muzzle
  • Tail longer than body length

Behavior & Habitat:

  • Excellent climbers, prefer upper floors, attics, trees
  • Nest in trees, vines, dense vegetation
  • Enter homes through roof/upper-floor openings
  • Poor swimmers
  • Use power lines and tree branches to access roofs
  • More common in coastal and southern Texas

Also called: Black rat, ship rat, house rat, citrus rat

How to Identify Rats

Rat vs. Mouse - Key Differences

Size

  • Rats: 12-18 inches total length (body + tail)
  • Mice: 5-7 inches total length
  • Rats: 5-17 ounces weight
  • Mice: Less than 1 ounce

Droppings

  • Rat: 3/4 inch long, capsule-shaped
  • Mouse: 1/8 to 1/4 inch, rice-sized
  • Rat: Blunt or pointed ends
  • Mouse: Pointed both ends

Features

  • Rat: Large, thick body
  • Mouse: Small, slender
  • Rat: Large head and feet
  • Mouse: Small, proportional features

Norway Rat vs. Roof Rat

Quick Identification
  • Tail: Hold rat up - if tail doesn't reach nose, it's a Norway rat; if tail extends past nose, it's a roof rat
  • Location: Basement/ground = Norway rat; Attic/upper floors = Roof rat
  • Body: Thick, heavy = Norway rat; Slim, sleek = Roof rat
  • Ears: Small ears = Norway rat; Large ears = Roof rat

Signs of Rat Infestation

💩 Droppings

Rat droppings are 3/4 inch long, dark, and capsule-shaped. Fresh droppings are moist and dark; older droppings are gray and crumbly. Rats produce 40-50 droppings per day. Droppings concentrated in specific areas indicate nesting sites or feeding stations.

Norway rats: Basement, crawl space, along walls | Roof rats: Attics, upper cabinets, rafters

🦷 Gnaw Marks

Large gnaw marks on wood, plastic, aluminum, even cinder blocks. Rat teeth marks are about 1/8 inch wide. Fresh gnaw marks are lighter colored and become darker with age. Rats gnaw constantly to keep their ever-growing incisors (4-5 inches per year) under control.

Where to look: Door corners, window sills, baseboards, wall studs, pipes, wires, stored items

👣 Tracks and Runways

Rats follow the same paths repeatedly, creating visible runways with dark grease marks along walls. In dusty areas, you'll see tail drag marks and footprints. Rats have 4 toes on front feet, 5 on back feet. Sprinkle flour or talcum powder in suspected areas to reveal tracks.

Where to look: Along walls, rafters, pipes, behind appliances, attic insulation

🏚️ Burrows and Nests

Norway rats: Burrow holes 2-4 inches diameter along foundations, under slabs, in yards. Burrows are 18 inches deep with entrance, exit, and nest chamber.
Roof rats: Nests in attics, wall voids, trees. Made from shredded material (insulation, paper, fabric) about 8 inches diameter.

Norway: Ground level, foundations, crawl spaces | Roof: Attics, trees, upper structures

👂 Sounds

Loud scratching, scurrying, thumping, or gnawing sounds in walls, ceilings, attics. Rats are much noisier than mice. You may hear squeaking, fighting, or chittering sounds. Activity is primarily at night, with peak activity at dusk and just before dawn.

When to listen: Nighttime hours, especially just after dark and before sunrise

👃 Odor

Strong, musky odor from rat urine and glandular secretions. The smell is particularly noticeable in enclosed spaces. Large infestations produce overwhelming ammonia smell. Dead rats create intense decomposition odor lasting 2-3 weeks.

Where to smell: Crawl spaces, attics, wall voids, storage areas, garages

🐾 Pet Behavior

Dogs and cats acting unusually excited or focused on specific areas - pawing at walls, staring at ceilings, intense interest in specific rooms or structures. Some dogs will catch and kill rats.

Watch for: Unusual attention to walls, floors, ceilings; excited or agitated behavior

👀 Live or Dead Rats

Seeing a rat during daylight hours indicates a large infestation (overcrowding forces daytime activity). Finding dead rats suggests poisoning program nearby or disease in population. One visible rat typically means many more hidden.

Common sightings: Yards at dusk, alleys, around dumpsters, near water sources, occasionally indoors

Health Risks and Property Damage

Diseases Transmitted by Rats

Leptospirosis (Weil's Disease)

Bacterial infection transmitted through rat urine-contaminated water. Causes kidney damage, liver failure, respiratory distress. Can be fatal without treatment. Common in flood-prone areas.

Hantavirus

Viral infection transmitted by breathing contaminated dust. Causes hantavirus pulmonary syndrome (HPS) with 38% fatality rate. No cure or vaccine available.

Rat-Bite Fever

Bacterial infection from bites, scratches, or contact with dead rats. Causes fever, vomiting, rash, joint pain. Can be fatal if untreated (10% mortality rate).

Salmonellosis

Food poisoning from consuming food/water contaminated with rat feces. Causes severe diarrhea, fever, abdominal cramps. Elderly and young children at highest risk.

Plague

While rare, plague (Yersinia pestis) still occurs in rural Texas. Transmitted by fleas from infected rats. Requires immediate antibiotic treatment.

Property Damage

  • Electrical Fires: #1 cause of fires attributed to rats - gnawing through wire insulation
  • Structural Damage: Gnawing weakens wooden support beams, floor joists, rafters
  • Plumbing Damage: Rats gnaw through PVC, copper, and even lead pipes causing floods
  • Food Contamination: Average rat contaminates 10x more food than it eats
  • Insulation Destruction: Nesting destroys attic insulation (replacement $1,500-$5,000)
  • HVAC Contamination: Feces and urine in ductwork contaminates air supply
  • Foundation Damage: Norway rat burrows undermine foundations and slabs
  • Vehicle Damage: Rats nest in engines, chew wiring, destroy upholstery
Economic Impact: The average cost of rat damage and remediation is $3,000-$7,000 per infestation. This includes extermination, exclusion, insulation replacement, electrical repairs, and structural repairs. Severe infestations can cost $10,000-$25,000+ to fully remediate.

Rat Prevention Strategies

Exclusion - Critical for Long-Term Control

Rats can squeeze through openings as small as 1/2 inch:

  • Seal all openings 1/2 inch or larger with 1/4-inch wire mesh hardware cloth
  • Install sheet metal or hardware cloth at base of doors and door frames
  • Seal gaps around pipes, wires, vents with copper mesh and mortar/concrete
  • Install door sweeps with metal kickplate (1/2 inch gap maximum)
  • Repair cracks in foundation larger than 1/2 inch with concrete
  • Screen crawl space vents with 1/4-inch hardware cloth
  • Install chimney caps and roof vent screens
  • Seal gaps between siding and foundation with metal flashing
  • Repair holes in soffits and fascia boards

Yard and Property Maintenance

  • Cut back tree branches 6 feet from roof (prevent roof rat access)
  • Trim ivy and dense vegetation away from building
  • Remove brush piles, lumber piles, and yard debris
  • Store firewood 18 inches off ground, 20 feet from house
  • Keep grass cut short (eliminates cover)
  • Remove fallen fruit from trees daily
  • Store garbage in metal cans with tight lids
  • Eliminate standing water sources

Food Source Elimination

  • Store bulk foods in metal or thick plastic containers with tight lids
  • Don't leave pet food out overnight
  • Clean up spilled birdseed and grain
  • Keep compost bins sealed (use rat-proof composters)
  • Store animal feed in metal bins
  • Clean BBQ grills after each use
  • Take trash out daily, clean cans regularly
  • Harvest garden produce promptly

Sanitation

  • Reduce clutter in garages, basements, storage areas
  • Store items in hard plastic bins, not cardboard boxes
  • Keep items off floor on shelves or pallets
  • Eliminate potential nesting materials (paper, fabric, insulation scraps)
  • Clean up pet waste from yards
  • Keep dumpster areas clean

Special Considerations for Roof Rats

  • Cut tree limbs away from roof (minimum 6 feet clearance)
  • Remove climbing vines from exterior walls
  • Install 12-18 inch metal guards on utility lines
  • Inspect and seal upper-level entry points
  • Screen attic vents with 1/4-inch hardware cloth
  • Seal gaps where roof meets walls

Professional Rat Control

Why Professional Treatment is Essential

Rats are intelligent, wary, and difficult to eliminate without professional expertise. DIY efforts often fail because:

  • Rats are neophobic (fear new objects) - avoid traps for days or weeks
  • Large infestations require dozens of traps in strategic locations
  • Exclusion work requires specialized materials and construction knowledge
  • Improper baiting can create bait-shy rats that refuse all poison
  • Dead rats in inaccessible areas create severe odor problems
  • Without complete exclusion, new rats continue entering

Our Professional Treatment Process

1. Comprehensive Inspection

  • Complete interior and exterior inspection
  • Identify all entry points and potential entry points
  • Determine rat species (Norway vs. roof rat)
  • Locate nesting sites, runways, feeding areas
  • Assess infestation severity
  • Identify food sources and attractants
  • Provide detailed written report with photos

2. Population Reduction

Trapping (Preferred Method)

  • Large snap traps placed in high-activity areas
  • Multiple trap types and bait varieties
  • Secured placement (locked bait stations if pets/children present)
  • Strategic placement along runways
  • Daily trap monitoring and carcass removal
  • Prevents odor issues from dead rats in walls

Rodenticide Baiting (When Necessary)

  • Exterior-only application in locked, tamper-resistant stations
  • Second-generation anticoagulants (effective on resistant rats)
  • Strategic station placement along rat runways and burrows
  • Regular monitoring and bait replenishment
  • Interior baiting only in inaccessible areas (wall voids, sewers)

3. Exclusion Work - Most Critical Step

  • Seal ALL entry points with appropriate materials:
  • 1/4-inch hardware cloth for large openings
  • Copper or stainless steel mesh for pipe penetrations
  • Metal kickplates and door sweeps
  • Concrete or mortar for foundation cracks
  • Metal flashing for structural gaps
  • Vent screens and chimney caps
  • Professional-grade sealants rated for rodent resistance
  • Warranty on exclusion work (1-2 years typical)

4. Sanitation & Cleanup

  • Safe removal of droppings and contaminated insulation
  • Attic restoration if necessary
  • Disinfection of contaminated areas
  • Odor treatment for dead rat smell
  • HVAC duct cleaning if contaminated
  • Insulation replacement with new material

5. Follow-Up Monitoring

  • Multiple return visits to monitor activity
  • Additional trapping if activity continues
  • Identify and seal any new entry points
  • Verify complete elimination
  • Ongoing monitoring program available

Rat Control Costs in Texas

Professional Inspection
$100 - $200
Trapping Service (Initial Setup)
$300 - $600
Follow-Up Trap Service
$100 - $175/visit
Basic Exclusion Work
$500 - $1,500
Comprehensive Exclusion
$1,500 - $4,000
Burrow Treatment (Norway Rats)
$200 - $400
Attic Cleanup & Restoration
$2,000 - $8,000
Complete Treatment Package
$800 - $3,000

Pricing varies based on infestation severity, property size, accessibility, and extent of exclusion work required. Most infestations require 4-8 service visits over 4-8 weeks. Exclusion work is essential for long-term control - prices vary greatly based on home age and condition.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if I have rats or mice?

Size of droppings is the easiest way to tell: rat droppings are 3/4 inch long (about the size of a raisin), while mouse droppings are rice-sized (1/8-1/4 inch). Rats also make louder noises (loud scratching, thumping) compared to mice (light scratching). Rat gnaw marks are larger (1/8 inch wide) with rough edges. If you see droppings the size of a raisin or larger, you have rats.

Can rats come up through the toilet?

Yes, though it's rare. Norway rats are excellent swimmers and can tread water for 3 days. They can swim up through sewer lines and enter buildings through toilet drains, especially if the pipes are damaged or poorly sealed. Install backflow prevention devices if you're in an area with sewer rat problems. Keep toilet lids closed and report any rat sightings to the water/sewer department.

How long does it take to get rid of rats?

Light infestations (1-3 rats) can be eliminated in 2-3 weeks. Moderate infestations (4-10 rats) typically require 4-6 weeks. Severe infestations (10+ rats) may take 8-12 weeks of intensive trapping. However, trapping alone is insufficient - complete exclusion work is essential to prevent reinfestation. Without proper exclusion, rats will continue entering and the problem never fully resolves.

What's the best bait for rat traps?

Contrary to popular belief, cheese is not the best bait. Rats prefer peanut butter, bacon, dried fruit, nuts, and nesting materials (cotton, yarn, dental floss). For Norway rats, use meats and fish. For roof rats, use fruits and nuts. Secure bait with wire so rats must trigger trap. Change baits if rats ignore traps - neophobia can make rats avoid baited traps for days. Pre-baiting (leaving traps unset with bait for several days) helps overcome neophobia.

Should I use rat poison or traps?

Traps are strongly recommended over poison for most situations. Poisoned rats often die in inaccessible wall voids, creating terrible odors lasting 2-3 weeks with no way to remove the carcass. Traps allow immediate removal of dead rats. Poison is appropriate for exterior use only in secured bait stations, or for treating inaccessible areas like sewers. Never use loose poison where pets, children, or non-target wildlife can access it. Many rat species have developed resistance to first-generation anticoagulants.

Will rats leave on their own?

No. Once rats establish a nest with access to food, water, and shelter, they won't leave voluntarily. They'll continue reproducing - a pair of rats can produce 15,000 descendants in one year. Rats are territorial and defend their established territory. The problem will only get worse over time. Rats must be actively trapped/poisoned and all entry points must be sealed to eliminate an infestation. Professional intervention is necessary.

Need Professional Rat Control?

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